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Category: Training

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Start of a new block of climbing focusing on leg strength, rowing specific conditioning & climbing specific grip strength.

F.U.W 8th November (In The Garage)


Great F.U.W today illustrating the fact that simple doesn’t equal easy.
5 sprints forward, 5 backward uphill with 2 x 12kg dumbbells
5 rounds & after each round 20 squats & 20 overhead Kettlebell presses.

We were four people divided into teams of two.
As one partner ran up with the dumbbells & back down, the other partner rested.

It equalled around 1 hour 15 minutes with no rest in between rounds.

With the intensity of being down in the garage & four competitive people it was a recipe for sore legs. I’m sure I’ll feel this for the coming week.


As soon as one person started running downhill it soon became the only way to keep up with each other, a dangerous yet effective tactic

Roughly 10-12% gradient

12kg is deceptively easy on paper

Being accountable for your partner means pushing when there’s nothing left

F.U.W (Gym Jones “60 Minute Work Capacity Test”)


This was the beginning of what will turn out to be a very stressful training week.
5 hours of training;

1 hour – High Intensity
2 hours – Zone 1 (Aerobic)
2 hours – Technical Indoor Climbing

Let’s start with the 60 Min Work capacity test;

1000 reps in <;60 minutes, the rest of the time is spent accumulating sets of 10 meters on the rower. Each 10 meters = 1 point

Organise the exercises and reps however you like to get a better score, some coupled their strength with weaknesses, some just followed the list. I broke up half the exercises into sets of 25 & then did the same with the other half.

Well.. No one got any points however it's nice that now there is a hunger to repeat the workout with a better result.

When I repeat it I will definitely go in with a different strategy. I'll keep Wallball and ball slams to do while 'resting'. I was only short 45 reps.



Strength (Week 6 Mag/Ort Deadlift Routine)


Week 6 of Mag/Ort Deadlift Routine.

Peak Weight = 165KG x 2
Peak Load = 130KG x 10

The routine works in 3 four week blocks.
Week 1 – Repeat of previous blocks heaviest load
Week 2 – Increase in load
Week 3 – Increase in load
Week 4 – Recovery (No Deadlifts)

Following advise from Gym Jones & Wendler, me and my clients are using 90% of my 1RM to calculate loads for the program. This helps enforce good reps and keep perfect form whilst also making it less likely that anyone will be repeating any weeks.
Now this all works in theory of course however what I and a few others have noticed is that grip strength is starting to become an issue.
Our 1RM was performed with chalk and we are trying to avoid using chalk as a crutch. So far we are successful and in 6 weeks haven’t touched the white stuff.
This, also has had the effect of us paying a lot more attention to our supplemental grip training which we are starting to reap benefits from. I.e my grip strength during climbing is noticeably improved over the last month.



F.U.W 24th October 2013


Today’s F.U.W was thought by Roy Liefting.
We’ve been alternating who decides the workout each week.
So far for the fourth week running each workout designed has been based around that persons weakness.

So for a big guy who can easily out-row and out-lift me, a purely Bodyweight workout that focused only on reps for the whole 45 minutes was quite refreshing.

I started anticipating the worst, but as it turned out once the timer started running we managed to finish every interval in 28-32 seconds giving ourselves exactly 28-32 seconds rest each time.

If your a guy looking to test your strength-weight ratio, I definitely recommend giving this a try as it is easy to shy away from these workouts when all you care about is how much you bench or deadlift.

On the other end of the spectrum if your looking to gain valuable strength endurance with minimum ‘bulk’ achieving perfect reps on this workout is something to strive towards.


Today in the gym (Tuesday 23rd October – 2012)


Week 5 of the Mag/Ort 12 week deadlifting routine.
All weights are based on my max which was done with chalk.

I brought the chalk with me into the gym hoping not to use it.
Although it hasn’t been used I can see how it can easily become a crutch for weak hands & now that we are getting more serious with a rock climbing strong hands are important.

I finished off my last set of 8+ reps at 125kg with 10 reps, followed by Pinch grip until failure.





I.W.T Workout slightly modified. A typical Interval Weight Training session is comprised of three parts. Typically the first part contains some sort of explosive lift. The second part contains a slow grinding lift & the third is a small circuit. Today the 5 minute intervals served one purpose, preserving intensity.

Contrary to what some will have you think, rest is good. It it allows you to go truly hard in the next interval. In the bigger picture, rest will allow you to go hard all year long.

We also introduced a penalty system in today’s workout incase we didn’t hit the 300m row within the minute. At first we were all unsure we would make it. But the pressure was on & everyone was willing to work hard so as not to repeat a round on their own.






A classic Gym Jones workout followed by some intervals.
Having a lot of weight compressing your chest during recovery from rowing strengthens your ‘core’, diaphragm & your mind.

Follow it like this;

Player 1: Row 250m
Player 2: Holds Kettlebells in ‘rack’ until row is complete
Swap to complete round.
3-5 rounds.

-Don’t rest kettlebells on your shoulders, the weight must be in the rack for the whole duration.
-Transition from rack hold to rowing must be quick.
-No sandbagging